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Wine Accessory

A Taste of Australian Wine
'Muscats and Tokays of the Rutherglen Region'
by Gavin Trott

I must begin by stating a bias, these wines are absolutely individual, world class and at their best, ASTONISHING. I make no attempt at being unbiased when describing them. If I get even close to their unique style, incredible complexity and great age, if I make you want to run out and buy some, then I have accomplished my goal! The complex flavours, the length, the age and the mouthfilling qualities of these wines put Bordeaux, Burgundy, indeed most other wines other than perhaps Vintage Ports and Madeira to shame.

So how are these astonishing wines made, and what are they made from?
The answer to both questions is deceptively simple. Each wine is a style not a variety and each is made from a different grape. Muscat is made from a brown coloured type of the grape Muscat a Petits Grains known locally as Brown Muscat, and Tokay is made from Muscadelle, a grape better known for a small role in the sweet wines of Bordeaux. In both cases the grapes are grown in this hot sun drenched region and allowed to hang on the vine long after the table grapes are ripe, soaking up that heat, turning it into sugar, and then concentrating this sugar and the acid as the grape shrivels. In this way the grapes often reach 16-20 degrees Baume (each degree Baume roughly equates to one % alcohol after fermentation) quite naturally which means the resultant wine will be both sweet and rich.

The grapes are then picked and crushed. This in itself is a difficult job due to the raisined grapes and intense sugar levels. Next comes the fermentation, the use of yeast to turn the sugar into alcohol. Many makers, Chambers included, do not even start fermenting some wines (Tokay) or in very ripe years. Either way, the short fermentation is stopped rather like Port by the addition of high quality brandy spirit which kills the yeast leaving all that rich sugary sweetness and flavour.

The next step involves time and patience. The young wine is cleaned then put into oak barrels of varying sizes to age and develop. No new oak is used for this process as the added flavour would not work with the wine, in fact, most of the makers feel that the older the oak the better. Most of these wineries are full of a myriad of barrels of varying sizes and some of great age. The rest of the process is time.

What happens now is controlled oxidation. Over time, lots of time, small amounts of air get in through the oak to affect the wine, and through these same very small openings tiny amounts of the wines evaporate (locally this evaporated liquid is known as the "angel's share"). The effect is three fold:

Colour
The oxidation causes colour and flavour changes in the wine. Muscat when young is reddish brown but time and oxygen turns it brown, then eventually olive green, particularly on the rim. Tokay starts out lighter with golden tints but follows the same pattern with very old Muscat and Tokay looking quite similar.

Texture
Given the loss through evaporation both wines become noticeably thicker, even oily. In fact, very old wines, and there are some as old as 100 years and more, look and have the texture of Treacle or Molasses.

Flavour
Time adds to the complexity of the wines with older wines showing many aromas and flavours that were not present in the young wines. Most noticeable among these is 'rancio', a term much used with Sherries and Ports and which means, at least as well as I can explain it, a mixture of volatility and other substances (aldehydes for the chemists amongst us) which stop the sweet wine from smelling and tasting over sweet or cloying. In fact, all the flavours concentrate and intensify until older wines are quite literally explosive in the mouth.

So what can I expect from Muscat and Tokay?
Muscat has an aroma that can be described as fruity, with smells of grape, raisins, orange peel, rancio brandy spirit and more plus a palate including incredibly intense sweetness, and many other flavours that I can't find words for.
Tokay has all of these plus a characteristic flavour and aroma from the Muscadelle grape that has been described as cold tea, fish oil, or malt extract, all right, but all wrong ... you'll need to try the wine to know what I mean.

Producers to watch for
Chambers Rosewood
Morris
Stanton and Killeen
Baileys
Campbells
Brown Brothers
All Saints

Wines to try
Chambers Liqueur Muscat and Tokay (younger)Very Old Liqueur Muscat and Tokay (very special, very, very old)
Morris Canister Series (younger) or Old Premium Liqueur (older)
Stanton and Killeen Special Old Liqueur
Baileys Warby and Founder Range (younger) and Winemakers Selection (older)
Campbells Merchant Prince
Brown Brothers
All Saints Lyrebird Range

I once was privileged enough to try some 100 year old Muscat from Chambers. It was so dark and thick you almost could not pour it! It looked like treacle and in the mouth was explosive, almost searing in its intensity and the flavour stayed with me for ages, longer than any other wine experience. It is this wine, when blended in with medium and fresher wine, that makes these old blends so sensational to try.

Gavin is the manager of the Australian Wine Centre (a large collection of affordable, rare and cult Australian wines) and hosts the very popular Auswine Forum (An online discussion forum about Australian wine) . You may reprint this article either on a website or in print but you must maintain this resource section naming the author. Please email the author with details on where you intend to use it. You can obtain the latest version of this article and more free wine content for your website from www.freesticky.com

 

A Look At Bordeaux And Burgundy Wines

By Gregg Hall

The regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy in France are world renowned for producing some of the best wines available anywhere. Let's take a look at them individually.

First we have Bordeaux, this world famous region in France near the Southeast coast makes some of the best and most famous red wines as well as white wines and dessert wines. Of these, the most notable of the red wines come form Medoc, Saint-Emilion, and Pomerol. Most of the high quality white wines hail from the area called Graves while the best dessert wines are found in Sauternes and Saint-Croix-du-Mont.

With the red wines of Bordeaux we usually see blends including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and occasionally a little of Petit Verdot. The dessert wines and white wines from the Bordeaux region are mainly of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion. Some of the most expensive and in demand wines come from the Bordeaux region including the world famous Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild.

The Bordeaux region is a diversified wine growing area with nearly ten thousand wine making chateaux, and over thirteen thousand wine growers. Due to the sheer numbers you will find a variety of wines from old and established aged Bordeaux wines to young wines. Bordeaux wines offer everything from the top quality wines like the Rothschild mentioned above which deserves the price it brings, to even the more common table wines that are much less expensive but still of superior quality. You can't go wrong with a wine from this region.

The Burgundy Region is located in North Central France reaching from Dijon south to Beaujolais. It is said that the farther north you go in Burgundy the better the wine. The far northern area of Burgundy called Cote d'Or means hills of gold and probably for this reason! It is here that we find the Pinot Noir grape that is responsible for some of the world's most delicious and complex wines. Some of the very best vineyards in Burgundy are right here in the hills, sitting in the actual hillsides.

Beaujolais is located in the southern area of the Burgundy region and instead of the Pinot Noir grape, the wine producers here choose the Gamay which is known to be fruitier. These wines are made to be consumed while they are young and it is recommended that they be chilled to even further enhance the berry taste. A good Beaujolais wine will be fruity and yet still be dry.

Many of the Burgundy vineyards are ranked "Grand Cru" which indicates the very best vineyards and quite a few others are labeled "Premier Cru" which means exceptional. When looking at the label of a wine from the Burgundy Region you will find the exact location the grapes come from and that is usually all the information given.

I hope you have enjoyed reading about the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions and their famous wines, now go out and get some and try it for yourself!

 

Gregg Hall is a consultant for online and offline businesses and lives in Navarre Florida. Find out about personalized wine bottles at http://www.winebottlespersonalized.com

 

Copyright 2007. All Rights Reserved

 

 

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